PENINSULA VALDES – ARGENTINA
The Land Of The Bigfoot
Protected by UNESCO, the stingray-shaped peninsula offers an excellent opportunity to meet and greet most Patagonian wildlife.
Once you are at Istmo Ameghino, the starting point of the reserve, go ahead and stop by the information center that provides valuable information about Peninsula Valdes’s wildlife. Take some time to explore the small museum, go up to the tower, and take a photo of the birds’ island, which was the
cover page for Little Prince. Before leaving the center, check the board where information about the tide is displayed. If you are lucky to be there while the tides are high, the encounter with orcas is almost guaranteed!
Guanacos, rheas, martinetas, sea and land birds that nest in the area, as well as lizards, jararacas cream, and mammals such as hairy armadillo, cavy, tuco-tuco, jack straw, bobcat, gray fox, mara……you name it, Peninsula Valdes has it!
Enjoy stunning bays and dramatic cliffs that fall into the sea. Caleta Valdes and Punta Norte are two spots where orcas can be seen training their babies and where sea lions, elephant seals, and Magellanic penguins relax together at the beach.
Punta Norte is a serene reserve where wildlife is active throughout the year, especially between December and April, the breeding season for sea lions and elephants.
But Peninsula Valdes is not only about wildlife. The area is a mosaic of reserves and 56 private estancias.
These traditional and working farms offer a bit of a glimpse into the lives of the famous “Gaucho.”
Today, their main business is the famous Merino sheep. By the end of the day, if you have any time left, treat yourself to a nice lunch in a charming fisherman village, Punta Piramide, where the boats set sails for whale watching.
PUNTA TOMBO – ARGENTINA
The Land of The Bigfoot (part 2)
“They’re as big as ducks but can’t fly because they have no feathers on their wings.
Avero Vello, who sailed with Vasco Da Gama in 1497
Well, let’s get a few things straight
- Penguins are seabirds that live on land and at sea. They mate, incubate, hatch, and molt on land; they feed and migrate at sea.
- Most penguin species are monogamous (only one partner per season), have strong family bonds, and usually return to the same nesting area year after year. Both parents are responsible for keeping the borrow in good condition and feeding their chicks.
- There are 17 species of penguins.
- Penguins have modified their wings into flippers so they can swim underwater, reaching speeds of 16- 24km/h
- 30 years is their life expectancy
- Penguins can drink fresh water and seawater. They have glands under their eyes that help rid their bodies of excess salt. To expel the salty fluid, they either sneeze or let it leak down their bill.
- A gland near the base of a penguin’s tail produces an oil that the penguin applies to its feather. The oil keeps the feather smooth and waterproof.
- Penguins are social creatures. They live in large colonies called rookeries.
- Different penguin species have different ways of attracting mates. King penguins sing long songs, while Gentoo Penguin males give their mates gifts or small pebbles or stones.
- Magellanic penguins live in 63 nesting colonies along the coast of Argentine Patagonia, the largest of which is Punta Tombo.
No visit to Puerto Madryn is complete without a visit to Punta Tombo, the world’s largest continental rookery of Magellanic penguins.
Once there, you will quickly forget the 181 km bumpy ride. Burrowing their nest up to 3 miles from the shore, you’ll see Magellanic penguins from the rolling hills to the sea. Travel along the rock-lined paths, going from nest to nest, ending on the beach lined with penguins.
Now, before you are carried away by millions of penguins and the breathtaking scenery of the reserve, please promise that:
You will not touch penguins
You will not feed them
You will switch off the flash while taking photos of the penguins, especially chicks.
You will do your best not to grab one and take it back home.
To be continued…
PUNTA TOMBO – ARGENTINA
The Land of The Bigfoot
Protected by Golfo Nuevo on the Atlantic coast of Argentina, this small Patagonian town is known for its white sand beach, relaxed atmosphere, and right whales that can be easily spotted from the shore.
Back in time, European explorers used this protected bay as a shelter from rough seas. Once on land, they found themselves among giant Indians dressed in the skin and ate raw meat.
Magellan and his crew gave the full report about the native people of this land. Because of their height, scary look, and big feet, Magellan called them Patagones. Shortly after, this Indian legend became the name we call Patagonia today.
Alcohol and diseases that came with Europeans brought decline and untimely extinction of native people. Three hundred years later, a brave group of Welsh immigrants board the clipper ship in Liverpool to sail to a new world they knew nothing about. After a harsh crossing, 153 promise seekers who had never left their villages sailed into Golfo Nuevo and named a new home after their Welsh baron Madryn, Puerto Madryn.
PUERTO MONTT – CHILE
“All that glitters is not gold.”
Purto Montt is not a pretty little town. Even locals admit that by calling it Muerto Montt (Dead Montt) But if you scratch deep enough, you will find that this billion-dollar-a-year salmon industry machine is a gateway to the land of stunning scenery, great food, and guaranteed adventures.
Once you leave Puerto Montt, just around the corner, the scenery of thick forest, clear lakes, and snow- capped volcanos will unfold in front of your eyes. Manicured farms, neat houses, and clean cattle are far from the usual South American scene. Impressed or confused, the European countryside will be on your mind. But don’t be tricked by this idealistic scenery; history was not peachy here. Behind this serenity, there is a tragic story about the Mapuche people. Some cultural evidence makes Mapuche one of the oldest tribes in the Americas in connection with Maori people from New Zealand. Bold and brave, they went through many historical hoops and were conquered in the 19th century. Known as canoe Indians in their early period, the tribe focused on fishing. But once the Incas tried to take their land in South Chile, Mapuche sent them back home. Shortly after the Incas, the Spaniards realized that you should join them if you can’t defeat them. The treaty was made and lasted until Chilean independence in 1817.
Although the Chilean government granted the land, Mapuche was manipulated and neglected. Their
land became public and later given to Europeans. Once they were put onto reservations, severe
starvation, social instability, and diseases made them almost disappear. The final whip was done by
Pinochet in 1973.
Today, they feel that they are left out, with no land, education, or rights. But they didn’t give up! Their fight continues, but it is in UN quarters in Geneva this time. All hopes are now put on Chilean president Michelle Bachelet and her promise that a new constitution will recognize indigenous people…
PORT INFO
Puerto Montt port is a tendering port. The pier is walkable.
Language: Spanish
Currency: CLP – Chilean Peso
DON’T MISS
- Vicente Perez Rosales National Park
Created in the middle of volcano activity, this 625.000 acres park offers excellent opportunities for hiking, bird watching, rafting, kayaking, and horseback riding.
Among its great highlights are:
Volcano Osorno
Osorno is a trademark of the Lake District and the most active volcano of the southern Chilean Andes. If you are lucky enough to be there on a sunny day, the top of the volcano (2.661m above the sea) is an excellent place for a zip line, chair lift, and hot tea. Bring hats and gloves, as the winds are brutal at the top.
Lago Todos Los Santos
This absolutely gorgeous lake is a real photographer’s delight. The emerald green lake facing the volcano, friendly and easy trails, and an enjoyable boat ride are the perfect ways to spend your day in this area.
Falls and Falls and Petrohué River
For adrenaline junkies rafting on the Petrohué River will be the right choice. If you visit the falls during the high season (from December to April), try to avoid the crowds and plan to visit early in the morning or late afternoon.
Trails:
El Solitario Trail (3.7 miles, Ensenada area)
Margarita Lagoon (4.9 miles, Peulla area)
Paso Desolación (7.4 miles, eastern side of Osorno) - Puerto Varas
Resting at the bay of Llanquihue Lake, Puerto Varas is a charming German town you should definitely put on your list. Besides the local market, handicraft shops, and lovely cafeterias, food trucks lined by the handicraft market are definitely something you should check. - Frutillar
Surrounded by forest and endless green fields on the shore of Llanquihue Lake, Frutillar offers an unforgettable view of Osorno, Puntiagudo, and Tronador Volcanoes.
Besides the great photo opportunities of volcanoes, the best thing to do is wander around the town, enjoy the fusion of German architecture and South American colors, try German pie, spend some time on the black sand beach, and take your better half for a perfect romantic moment in Muelle.
- Angelmo market
If you’re hungry and tired after all these activities, treat yourself to the delicious seafood or current dish at Angelmo Market.
Unless you desperately need souvenirs, skip the first part of the market and make your way to the fish market at the end of the bay. Once you are there, take your time and try native potatoes from Chiloe Island, elephant garlic, dried seafood, and homemade liquors.
Punta Arenas – Kiss the Foot
If your travel plans ever take you to the small town of Punta Arenas, please do not underestimate it. The Chilean last stop on the way to Antarctica has much more to offer than expensive outdoor equipment.
Although a relatively young town (established in the 18th century), Punta Arenas is where history, geography, and appetite for money made a long-lasting partnership.
In the early 16th century, Europe was craving space. Obsessed by the spice trade, Magellan set up the sails in 1519, determined to find the way to the Spice Islands. You must be laughing right now! All that fuss for curry and pepper!?! Well, yes…The spices seem familiar today and were considered as precious as gold. Not being discouraged by the Portuguese King, who refused to finance his adventure, Magellan turned to the Spanish Crown and got the money, 5 ships, and 260 crew members in no time.
Now, I would like you to sit in your comfortable armchair, close your eyes, relax, and imagine sailing on a ship the size of an average movie theater without GPS, satellite phone, or weather forecast.
The food was minimal. Due to a nasty smell, the crew ate junk (salted beef) and hardtack and drank water mixed with wine.
But nothing could stop Magellan, not even a crew mutiny and their attempt to get rid of him once they reached Brazil. Due to bad weather, Magellan got stuck in Argentina for a short period, from where he set sail to the unknown to reach unreachable.
While sailing at the tip of South America (today, Argentina and Chile share this land), Magellan spotted flames covering the unknown land. These were the fires Indians kept during the cold nights in their camps. Magellan named this mystical place Tierra del Fuego, where many explorers and navigators sadly ended their sailing careers. The perfect scenario for wrecked ships and broken dreams was the brutal winds, narrow passages, and rocks popping out from the sea as spikes.
Sadly, Magellan’s destiny, like Cook’s, was fatal. Killed by natives in the Philippines, he never finished the voyage.
Clashes between England and Spain will continue for many years to come. Treaties made in Europe were never applied in these waters. Once Chile gained independence, Spain was checkmated as Brits, Germans, and Croats were offered Chilean land for free. It took a little while for Europeans to bring famous French architects and the finest materials to the end of the world. In only 20 years, Punta Arenas was shining with exclusive villas and elegant neoclassical buildings. Eva Braun and Jose Menendez (their houses are museums today) are silent reminders of that glorious time.
But Punta Arenas offers much more than a history lesson. Only 20 minutes from downtown, you will find Magellanic National Reserve, discovered in 1826. Take advantage of this place if you are a big fan of hikes, flora, fauna, and mud. Tired and muddy, treat yourself with delicious King Crab. If seafood is missing from your favorite food list, try Chilean fast food. You will discover that mayo and avocado are two do-not-miss condiments. Look for COMPLETO, a hot dog with guacamole and mayo.
Full and happy, continue 7.5 km to the South (10 minutes by cab), where you will find the impressive Nao Victoria Museum. Full-size replicas of Magellan’s Victoria, HMS Beagle, and Shackleton’s sailing boat proudly standing by the sea will blow your mind away.
Juan, the owner and creator of the replicas, will blushingly explain how the ships were made, talk about weapon collection, and carefully take you back to the 16th century. Take your time, and don’t rush! At the museum’s balcony, bring a folding chair and a cup of hot chocolate, sit, relax, and enjoy.
OK, I know what your next question is. Where are the penguins?
If penguins are why you traveled so far, Otway Sound, its tiny colony, and Magdalena Island are the places you should consider. Once you are there, be ready, as penguins will love the sound of your cameras. Approach carefully, switch off the flash, feed them, and refrain from taking one of them back
home.
At the main square by the market, you will find the statue of Magellan and Ona Indian. The legend says that if you want a safe pass and smooth sailing, you should kiss the Foot of the Indian. Be aware that holding a foot instead of kissing doesn’t count!
